Harare is a curious place: sometimes ugly and overbearing, sometimes soft and enchanting. Although some of the city is urban and gritty, you’re never too far away from trees and greenery in unexpected enclaves.

Here’s a rough map of the areas of Harare, and more details of each, below.

1. The City Centre & Avenues

This is the central business district, characterized by wide streets and a mish-mash of concrete, glass and brick buildings. (The city centre area is shown in red in the map.) Enthusiastic street vendors sell cell phone airtime, phone chargers, swimming pool toys and Zimbabwean flags at robots (traffic lights), and they can be seen either as a nuisance or a charismatic addition to the cityscape, depending on who you ask. Traffic is slow and footfall is high.

There are some colonial-era buildings like the still-used Parliament buildings and Town House, but the rest are rather dour 80s concrete affairs.

I don’t think Harare’s centre does justice to the rest of the city, and for this reason I wouldn’t like to stay there unless it was necessary for practical reasons. I’d much prefer to stay in the suburbs, and visit the city centre during the day. See my article on where to stay in Harare for suggestions.

Harare sights in the centre include: Unity Square, Harare Gardens, the National Gallery, the Book Cafe, National Archives and Mbare Musika

There are a number of upmarket hotels in the city centre, such as Miekles Hyatt, which are relatively luxurious, but not particularly good-looking.

If you visit Milton Street and the adjoining Leopold Takawira Street during Jacaranda season (late September), they create what Richard Hammond of The Grand Tour describes as “the most beautiful avenue of trees I think I’ve ever seen”.

TIP: In the city centre more than anywhere else in Zimbabwe, have your wits about you. Don’t walk around flouting your comparative wealth – ensure wallets are well out of the way of opportunistic hands. As in most cities, pickpocketing does occur here but this isn’t a reason to stay away. As a teenager I spent many happy December afternoons in the city centre, exploring shops for Christmas presents for family and friends. I was always alone and never had any problems from passers-by. However, times have changed since then.

The area near the train station is not tourist friendly unless you’re with locals.

Here’s a short video of a real-life drive through Harare’s city centre.

2. The Unassuming Inner-East

Suburbs of Eastlea, Highlands, Greendale (in lime green on the map)

These are generally well-kept, upper class suburbs: a sort of ‘middle-zone’ between highly affluent areas like Glen Lorne and the grittier city centre. Houses in Eastlea and Greendale are increasingly being bought for small businesses due to lack of space in the city, so you may visit a computer shop that happens to have a swimming pool and garden on their property!

Highlights include: Highlands House Accommodation, Tamba Tamba Kids Play Zone, Highland Park Shopping Centre, Victoria 22 Restaurant, Mukuvisi Woodlands, Three Monkeys Greendale, York Lodge, Curios behind Newlands Shopping Centre

3. The Affluent North-East

Suburbs of Chisipite, Colne Valley, Borrowdale, Glen Lorne, the Grange, Umwimsidale (in medium blue on the map)

This is where the big money is, especially Borrowdale Brooke and Glen Lorne. Sprawling lawns, tennis courts, and even a stable or two.

It is also one of the most beautiful parts of Harare: go up a side road and you’ll find yourself on top of a hill overlooking green Msasa trees and well-kept gardens. In recent years a number of building projects were started and then weren’t completed due to lack of money, which has left some unsightly piles of bricks and half-finished houses. These houses are a reminder of Zimbabwe’s recent economic rollercoaster, so add to the country’s story in their own way.

Shopping centres like Borrowdale Village are a good place to see how the more fortunate in Zimbabwe live (and to pick up a street map from Kingston’s stationers). At night, it’s home to various restaurants.

Highlights include: Samy Levy’s Village, Oak Tree Restaurant, Amanzi Restaurant, Birds at 30, The Plot Cafe, Raintree Venue, Patrick Mavros Shop, Imba Matombo Hotel, The Stables Market.

4. The Leafy North

Suburbs of Avondale, Strathaven, Mount Pleasant, Belgravia, Bluff Hill

Well-to-do suburbs with pretty tree-lined avenues and coffee shops tucked in gardens. These are among the more well-off areas of Harare, but not as wealthy as the North-East.

Avondale Shopping Centre is a hub of activity, which makes it a little rough round the edges, but I’d recommend any visitors to go to the flea market there to buy some souvenirs.

Highlights include: Avondale Shopping Centre and Flea Market, 49 Cork Rd, Arundel Village Shopping Centre, Vanilla Moon Cafe, Kingfisher Park.

5. The Industrial South-Central

Suburbs of Workington, Southerton, Willowvale, Graniteside (in purple on the map)

These places do as their names suggest: Harare’s big factories are here, producing clothing, softdrinks, bricks – you name it.

Unless you’re on business or looking for tiles, you probably won’t have cause to visit here as a tourist.

6. The People’s South-West

Suburbs of Dzivarasekwa, Warren Park, Kuwadzana, Mufakose, Budiriro, Highfields, Glen View, Waterfalls (in purple on the map)

These are a mixture of medium- and high-density areas, rarely seen by tourists. Houses are generally smaller and more tightly packed together.

There is a big variation within these areas, but for the purposes of this article which is written for tourists, I’ve put them into one group for brevity.

Some of these townships were initially set up by the colonial government from the 1930s onwards. Residents are mainly working-class, although there are more affluent members who have bigger properties: the townships are not the same, and each have their own personality, and are home to famous musicians such as Oliver Mtukudzi and Thomas Mapfumo. They are also home to a number of small industries.

A number of Zimbabwe’s political leaders came from these areas, and they are historically and culturally significant as perhaps the beating heart of Zimbabwe. Here’s one article that discusses the suburb of Highfields.

Here’s an interesting article about the history of some of Harare’s suburbs at Newsvyb.

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You might be interested in these articles

• Best hotels in Harare: From boutique to budget

• Harare Travel Guide: Everything you need to know

• Best restaurants in Harare

• Best cafes in Harare: Independent outdoor havens

• Best day trips from Harare (includes accommodation further out of Harare)

• Best things to do in Harare: Top activities and sights

• Places we love in Harare

• Quick reference list of Zimbabwe travel articles

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